When do I plant daffodils?

September to November — the earlier in this window, the better. Soil should still be warm (above 5°C) but autumn rains should have started. In southern UK: September is the ideal window. In Scotland and the north: September–October. Don't delay past early December — late-planted bulbs often flower late or skip the first year. Plant 3× bulb height deep (12–15 cm for standard bulbs), pointed end up.

Why aren't my daffodils flowering?

Almost certainly because the foliage was cut too early. Daffodils need their leaves for at least 6 weeks after flowering to photosynthesise and refill the bulb. Cutting or mowing too soon produces blind bulbs the following year. Fix going forward: leave foliage until it yellows naturally (typically mid-June); don't tie or knot leaves; deadhead spent flowers but never cut stems and leaves. Recovery: blind daffodils usually flower again 1–2 years after proper management resumes.

When do I cut daffodil foliage down?

When it has yellowed and collapsed naturally — typically late May to mid-June, 6+ weeks after the last flowers. Don't cut, mow, or tie before then — the leaves are still working to fuel next year's flowers. In lawns: skip mowing daffodil areas until mid-June at earliest. In borders: simply leave the yellowing leaves alone; they'll collapse and decompose naturally.

Will daffodils naturalise in my lawn?

Yes — daffodils are one of the best UK lawn-naturalising bulbs. Best types for lawns: smaller vigorous varieties — Tete-a-Tete, February Gold, Thalia, Pheasant's Eye. Method: lift small turf squares in autumn, scatter bulbs 12 cm deep, replace turf. Don't mow until mid-June. Over 5–10 years a small initial planting spreads by both seed and bulb division into impressive drifts. Best lawns: damp meadow-style lawns under deciduous trees.

What's the best daffodil for the UK?

For naturalising: Tete-a-Tete — early (Feb–Mar), dwarf (15 cm), vigorous, multi-headed; the most-planted UK daffodil. For classic display: King Alfred type yellow daffodils, classic trumpet shape. For scent: Thalia (multi-headed white) or Pheasant's Eye (late, intensely fragrant, UK heritage). For pots: Tete-a-Tete, Jetfire — compact and dramatic. Avoid heavy double-flowered varieties for general garden use — they often flop in rain.

Can I grow daffodils in pots?

Yes — pots showcase daffodils brilliantly. Use a 30 cm pot of peat-free compost with grit for drainage. Plant 10–15 bulbs in October, 12 cm deep. Move the pot under cover in deep winter if temperatures drop hard; bring out in early spring for flower display. After flowering: leave the pot somewhere out of the way for the leaves to die back (6+ weeks); replant bulbs in the garden in autumn for next year — pot daffodils rarely flower a second year in the same compost.

Narzisse

Narcissus

Pflanzen Sie Narzissenzwiebeln im Herbst (September–November) in einer Tiefe, die dem Dreifachen ihrer Höhe entspricht, an einem sonnigen oder halbschattigen Standort in gut durchlässigem Boden – sie sind die typische Frühlingszwiebel Großbritanniens, winterhart (RHS H6–H7) und eine der am einfachsten zu verwildernden mehrjährigen Zwiebelpflanzen. Narzissen blühen je nach Sorte von Ende Februar bis April, wobei der Höhepunkt im März–April liegt. Lassen Sie das Laub nach der Blüte mindestens 6 Wochen lang stehen – die Blätter betreiben Photosynthese, um die Zwiebel für das nächste Jahr mit Energie zu versorgen. Ein zu frühes Abschneiden ist der Hauptgrund für „blinde“ Narzissen, die nicht blühen. Binden oder verknoten Sie das Laub nicht – das ist zwar eine alte Gärtnerpraxis, verringert aber die Photosynthese. Narzissen sind dank ihrer Alkaloid-Toxizität weitgehend schädlingsfrei (die Narzissenfliege ist das einzige nennenswerte Problem). Eichhörnchen und Mäuse fressen keine Narzissenzwiebeln (im Gegensatz zu Krokussen). Eine der besten Zwiebelpflanzen für die Einbürgerung im britischen Rasen.

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