When do I prune a clematis?

Depends entirely on the pruning group — and getting it wrong removes all the flowers. Group 1 (montana, alpina, armandii — flowers on previous year's wood): prune AFTER flowering, just removing dead/damaged stems. Group 2 (large-flowered hybrids like Nelly Moser, Niobe, Henryi): light tidy in February, then a second light prune after first flowering. Group 3 (viticellas, late large-flowered hybrids, C. tangutica): cut to 30 cm above ground in February. If you don't know your group: check the cultivar name in a clematis catalogue or RHS database. If buying a new clematis, the label should state the pruning group.

Why did my clematis suddenly die overnight?

Almost certainly clematis wilt (Calophoma clematidina) — a fungal disease that causes stems to suddenly wilt and turn black, often after the first flowering. Three steps. (1) Cut all affected stems back hard to below the wilt point (often to ground level). (2) Keep watering and feeding — the deep-planted crown is usually fine. (3) The plant will usually re-shoot from below the soil within 4–6 weeks (which is why deep planting matters so much). For chronic wilt problems: replace susceptible Group 2 hybrids with disease-resistant Group 3 viticellas.

Why is my clematis not flowering?

Five common causes. (1) Wrong pruning — cutting at the wrong time removes flowering wood. Identify the group. (2) Too young — most clematis take 2–3 years to settle and flower properly. (3) Hot dry roots — shade the root zone, mulch, water deeply. (4) Not enough sun on the top — needs 4–6 hours direct sun for flowering. (5) Wrong feed — high nitrogen produces leaves not flowers; switch to tomato food for blooms.

What's the best clematis variety for the UK?

For a first or only clematis, pick a Group 3 viticella: easy pruning (cut to 30 cm in February), disease-resistant, prolific from June to September. Etoile Violette (deep violet, vigorous), Madame Julia Correvon (wine red), Polish Spirit (deep purple, AGM), Princess Diana (texensis, tulip-shaped pink). For a big spring climber: Montana var. rubens (pink) or Montana Elizabeth (pale pink, scented). Large-flowered hybrids are striking but prone to wilt; pick named cultivars carefully.

Why do I need to plant a clematis so deep?

Wilt protection. Clematis wilt is the most common UK clematis disease, attacking stems just above the crown. If the clematis is planted at pot depth, all the stems are vulnerable and the whole plant can die. Plant 7–10 cm deeper so the crown sits below soil level — new shoots can then emerge from below ground if upper stems are wilted, saving the plant. This single planting trick prevents 90% of clematis losses in UK gardens. Apply to every clematis you plant.

Can I grow clematis in a pot?

Yes — Group 3 viticellas are best. A 45 cm pot of peat-free compost mixed with garden compost and slow-release fertiliser. Plant 7–10 cm deeper than the pot the clematis came in (same deep-planting rule applies). Water consistently — pot clematis dry out fast and are quick to flop. Feed with tomato food fortnightly during flowering. Repot or top-dress every 2 years. Avoid vigorous montanas (too big) and large-flowered hybrids prone to wilt — viticellas are the pot-friendly group.

Clematis

Planta las clemátides en primavera u otoño, con la corona entre 7 y 10 cm POR DEBAJO de la superficie del suelo (más profunda que en la maceta): esta es la regla más importante a la hora de plantarlas y protege contra la devastadora marchitez de la clemátide, que acaba con las plantas que se plantan a poca profundidad. El grupo de poda es de vital importancia: el Grupo 1 (flores en madera vieja —montana, alpina—) casi no necesita poda; el Grupo 2 (flores en madera vieja Y nueva —la mayoría de los híbridos de flor grande—) requiere una poda ligera en febrero; el Grupo 3 (flores en madera nueva —viticella, híbridos de flor grande tardíos, C. tangutica—) debe podarse enérgicamente hasta los 30 cm en febrero. Si se confunde el grupo de poda, se cortarán todas las flores. Plantar en un lugar soleado con las raíces a la sombra y la parte superior al sol; una losa de pavimento o una planta baja en la base da sombra a las raíces. La mayoría de las clemátides son resistentes (RHS H5–H6).

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