Are aquilegias perennial?

Yes, but short-lived perennials — 3–4 years average. Each individual plant grows from seed, flowers for 3–4 seasons, then dies. The colony perpetuates indefinitely because aquilegias self-seed prolifically — there's always a new generation coming through to replace dying parents. Don't be surprised when individual plants disappear after their fourth flowering; this is normal. To keep aquilegias indefinitely: let some plants set seed each year (don't deadhead all stems), or sow fresh seed every 2–3 years.

Why do my aquilegias change colour over the years?

Cross-pollination. Aquilegias hybridise freely between colours when planted within bee range of each other (50+ m). The offspring seedlings inherit a mix of parent characteristics, often emerging as muddier or unexpected colour combinations. Within 3–4 generations, mixed colours often revert to the dominant wild blue-purple of Aquilegia vulgaris. To preserve a specific colour: plant in isolation from other aquilegias, or deadhead religiously before any seed sets and replant from fresh seed of the chosen variety each generation.

When do I plant or sow aquilegias?

Two windows. Direct-sow seed in May–June (surface-sow, needs light). Plants flower the following year. Plant young plants (1 L pots) in spring (March–April) or autumn (September–October). Most aquilegias bought as young plants flower in their first or second season. Don't transplant mature plants — the long taproot resents disturbance and the plant often dies within a year of being moved. Source young plants or sow direct where you want the colony.

What are those white squiggles on my aquilegia leaves?

Aquilegia leaf miner damage — a small fly whose larvae tunnel through the leaf, creating winding white-grey tracks. Cosmetic damage — doesn't significantly harm flowering or plant health, but ruins foliage appearance. Most aquilegias have some leaf miner damage by late spring. Two responses: (1) Pick off badly affected leaves and bin (don't compost — larvae overwinter in fallen foliage). (2) For severe infestations, cut the whole plant down to 5 cm after flowering — fresh regrowth is usually miner-free for the rest of the season.

Are aquilegias poisonous?

All parts mildly toxic if eaten in quantity. Aquilegias contain cyanogenic glycosides and alkaloids that can cause stomach upset, nausea, vomiting, and (in large quantities) heart palpitations. Healthy adults: small contact is harmless; eating significant amounts requires medical attention. Children and pets: warn against eating any part. In practice: aquilegias are not particularly attractive to eat (bitter flavour), and poisonings are rare. The seeds inside the splitting capsules contain the highest concentration of toxic compounds. Don't worry about handling, but wash hands after deadheading.

What's the best aquilegia for the UK?

For naturalising and easy perpetuation: wild Aquilegia vulgaris — the UK native (and widely naturalised), self-seeds reliably, classic cottage-garden look. For named-cultivar interest: Black Barlow (deep purple-black double), Nora Barlow (pink-and-green double), William Guinness (deep purple with white edges). For long-spurred elegance: Mrs Scott Elliott hybrids — large flowers, range of bicolours, slightly shorter-lived. For a first aquilegia, plant the species A. vulgaris — it'll give a perpetual colony with minimum fuss.

Ancolie

Aquilegia vulgaris

Semez les ancolies en pleine terre en mai-juin, ou plantez de jeunes plants au printemps ou à l'automne, au soleil ou à mi-ombre, dans n'importe quel sol de jardin de bonne qualité — ce sont des vivaces faciles à cultiver, à la durée de vie courte (3 à 4 ans), qui se ressèment abondamment et persistent sous forme de colonie qui se renouvelle d'elle-même. Les aquilégies sont rustiques (RHS H7) et produisent en mai-juin des fleurs penchées en forme de cloche à éperon, sur des tiges de 30 à 80 cm de haut. L'aquilégie commune (Aquilegia vulgaris) a des fleurs bleu-violet ; les hybrides nommés couvrent toute la gamme, du blanc au rose, en passant par le lilas, le violet foncé, le presque noir, le jaune et les bicolores. La pollinisation croisée est spectaculaire : si vous avez deux parents de couleurs différentes, les semis issus de la descendance présenteront une grande variation de couleurs. Coupez les tiges florales fanées après la floraison pour prolonger la saison, ou laissez-les pour permettre l'auto-ensemencement. Toutes les parties sont légèrement toxiques si consommées en quantité : ne touchez pas aux têtes de graines si des enfants ou des animaux domestiques broutent les plantes.

View full growing guide →