How do I tell bay from cherry laurel?

Critical to get right — cherry laurel is toxic. Bay laurel (Laurus nobilis, the kitchen herb): matt narrow oval leaves, faintly aromatic when crushed, small yellow flowers in spring, dark berries in autumn. Cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus, the hedging plant): glossy broader oval leaves, no aroma when crushed, white flower spikes, red-to-black berries. The crushed-leaf test is reliable — bay smells distinctly herbal, cherry laurel smells of nothing or faintly of bitter almond (cyanide).

Will bay survive a UK winter?

Hardy in most of the UK once mature (RHS H4) — survives down to about -10°C in a sheltered position. Young plants (under 3 years) and pot-grown bays are vulnerable below -5°C; they need protection in severe weather. Symptoms of cold damage: brown leaves in late winter that drop in spring; the plant usually re-shoots from the base if the roots survived. In cold gardens (Highlands, exposed Midlands), grow bay in a pot that can move under cover December–February.

When do I prune a bay tree?

Light shaping in early June is the main job — after the spring flush has hardened, before the second flush of growth. Use secateurs for individual leaf clipping (topiary), shears for hedge-style cuts. April: remove any crossing, dead, or frost-damaged branches. Don't prune late summer or autumn — soft regrowth won't harden before winter and will be frost-damaged. For renovation of an overgrown bay, hard-prune in late April; it tolerates cutting back into old wood.

What's wrong with my bay's leaves — curled and yellowing at the edges?

Almost certainly bay sucker (Trioza alacris), a small aphid-like insect that causes the characteristic leaf curl. Pick off and bin affected leaves at first sight. A horticultural soap or oil spray (organic) or pyrethrum-based control deals with active infestations. Improve airflow around the plant — bay sucker thrives in still, crowded conditions. Yellowing without curl is more likely nutrient deficiency on a pot-grown plant — top-dress with fresh compost and apply liquid feed.

Can I grow bay from seed or cuttings?

Cuttings are easier than seed. Take 10 cm semi-ripe cuttings in late summer (August), strip the lower leaves, push into gritty compost in a propagator with bottom heat (15–20°C). Roots form slowly — expect 8–12 weeks. Seeds are notoriously slow and unreliable; they take 6–12 months to germinate and seedlings grow at a glacial pace. Most UK gardeners buy a plant.

How many bay leaves should I use in cooking?

Two or three at most per dish. Bay is potent — too many leaves make a sauce or stew bitter and overly herbal. Always remove the leaves before serving (they're not edible whole — woody and sharp-edged when chewed). Older dark-green leaves have stronger flavour than fresh new tips; a year-old dried leaf is often more flavoursome than a fresh young one straight off the bush.

Alloro

Laurus nobilis

Plant a bay laurel in a sunny sheltered spot, in a pot or in the ground, in well-drained soil — it's a slow-growing Mediterranean evergreen shrub or small tree that gives you fresh bay leaves any time of year. Bay is moderately hardy (RHS H4) and survives most UK winters once mature, but young plants and pot-grown bays are vulnerable below -5°C and need winter protection. The classic UK use is a container-grown standard or pyramid on the doorstep — moveable, manageable, and decorative. Pick leaves any time; older darker leaves have stronger flavour than the bright fresh tips. Don't confuse with cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) which is toxic — true culinary bay has matt narrow leaves, faintly aromatic when crushed; cherry laurel has glossy broader leaves and contains cyanide compounds. Bay sucker (a pest causing curled leaves) is the main UK problem.

View full growing guide →