Are aquilegias perennial?

Yes, but short-lived perennials — 3–4 years average. Each individual plant grows from seed, flowers for 3–4 seasons, then dies. The colony perpetuates indefinitely because aquilegias self-seed prolifically — there's always a new generation coming through to replace dying parents. Don't be surprised when individual plants disappear after their fourth flowering; this is normal. To keep aquilegias indefinitely: let some plants set seed each year (don't deadhead all stems), or sow fresh seed every 2–3 years.

Why do my aquilegias change colour over the years?

Cross-pollination. Aquilegias hybridise freely between colours when planted within bee range of each other (50+ m). The offspring seedlings inherit a mix of parent characteristics, often emerging as muddier or unexpected colour combinations. Within 3–4 generations, mixed colours often revert to the dominant wild blue-purple of Aquilegia vulgaris. To preserve a specific colour: plant in isolation from other aquilegias, or deadhead religiously before any seed sets and replant from fresh seed of the chosen variety each generation.

When do I plant or sow aquilegias?

Two windows. Direct-sow seed in May–June (surface-sow, needs light). Plants flower the following year. Plant young plants (1 L pots) in spring (March–April) or autumn (September–October). Most aquilegias bought as young plants flower in their first or second season. Don't transplant mature plants — the long taproot resents disturbance and the plant often dies within a year of being moved. Source young plants or sow direct where you want the colony.

What are those white squiggles on my aquilegia leaves?

Aquilegia leaf miner damage — a small fly whose larvae tunnel through the leaf, creating winding white-grey tracks. Cosmetic damage — doesn't significantly harm flowering or plant health, but ruins foliage appearance. Most aquilegias have some leaf miner damage by late spring. Two responses: (1) Pick off badly affected leaves and bin (don't compost — larvae overwinter in fallen foliage). (2) For severe infestations, cut the whole plant down to 5 cm after flowering — fresh regrowth is usually miner-free for the rest of the season.

Are aquilegias poisonous?

All parts mildly toxic if eaten in quantity. Aquilegias contain cyanogenic glycosides and alkaloids that can cause stomach upset, nausea, vomiting, and (in large quantities) heart palpitations. Healthy adults: small contact is harmless; eating significant amounts requires medical attention. Children and pets: warn against eating any part. In practice: aquilegias are not particularly attractive to eat (bitter flavour), and poisonings are rare. The seeds inside the splitting capsules contain the highest concentration of toxic compounds. Don't worry about handling, but wash hands after deadheading.

What's the best aquilegia for the UK?

For naturalising and easy perpetuation: wild Aquilegia vulgaris — the UK native (and widely naturalised), self-seeds reliably, classic cottage-garden look. For named-cultivar interest: Black Barlow (deep purple-black double), Nora Barlow (pink-and-green double), William Guinness (deep purple with white edges). For long-spurred elegance: Mrs Scott Elliott hybrids — large flowers, range of bicolours, slightly shorter-lived. For a first aquilegia, plant the species A. vulgaris — it'll give a perpetual colony with minimum fuss.

Orlik ogrodowy

Aquilegia vulgaris

Wysiewaj orliki bezpośrednio w maju–czerwcu lub sadź młode sadzonki wiosną lub jesienią, w pełnym słońcu lub półcieniu, w dowolnej dobrej glebie ogrodowej — są to łatwe w uprawie byliny krótkotrwałe (3–4 lata), które obficie się rozmnażają przez nasiona i tworzą samoodnawialną kolonię. Orliki są odporne (RHS H7) i w maju–czerwcu wytwarzają opadające, dzwonkowate kwiaty z ostrogą na łodygach o wysokości 30–80 cm. Dziki orlik pospolity (Aquilegia vulgaris) ma niebiesko-fioletowe kwiaty; nazwane hybrydy obejmują pełną gamę kolorów od białego przez różowy, liliowy, ciemnofioletowy, prawie czarny, żółty i dwukolorowy. Zapylanie krzyżowe jest spektakularne — jeśli masz dwa rodzice o różnych kolorach, sadzonki potomstwa wykazują dziką zmienność kolorystyczną. Po kwitnieniu należy przyciąć przekwitłe łodygi kwiatowe, aby przedłużyć sezon, lub pozostawić je do samosiewu. Wszystkie części są lekko toksyczne w przypadku spożycia w większych ilościach — nie należy dotykać główek nasiennych, jeśli dzieci lub zwierzęta domowe pasą się na roślinach.

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