Foxglove

1. 1

   Choose the wild species or a named cultivar

   Wild foxglove (Digitalis purpurea species): the UK native — pink-purple spires with darker spots inside the bell, 1.2–1.5 m tall, biennial, self-seeds heavily. The reliable choice for woodland edges and naturalistic plantings. Named cultivars: Sutton's Apricot (peach-coloured), Pam's Choice (white with maroon throat), Camelot series (more compact, partly perennial). The Camelot series often flowers in year one — worth knowing if you want quick results. Perennial foxgloves: Digitalis lanata, D. grandiflora are true perennials with smaller yellow flowers — separate species, longer-lived.

2. 2

   Sow direct in late spring/early summer

   May to July is the ideal sowing window. Surface-sow seed where you want the plants — foxglove seed is dust-fine and needs light to germinate (don't cover). Press gently into damp soil. Germination in 14–21 days. Thin seedlings to 30 cm apart by autumn.

3. 3

   Plant in light shade in moist soil

   Foxgloves thrive at woodland edges, north-facing borders, and dappled-light positions. Full sun works but plants are smaller and shorter-lived. Deep shade reduces flowering. Moisture-retentive soil enriched with leaf-mould is ideal; tolerates clay if not waterlogged. Plant young plants 30 cm apart.

4. 4

   Understand the biennial cycle

   Year one: a rosette of large soft leaves at ground level, no flowering. Year two: a single tall flower spike (1.2–1.5 m) rises in May–June, blooms June–July, then sets seed and the parent plant dies. The trick to continuous foxgloves: sow or plant new young rosettes every spring so there's always a flowering generation and a developing generation.

5. 5

   Stake taller spikes in exposed sites

   The 1.2–1.5 m flower spikes can blow over in summer storms, especially when fully loaded with flowers. A single discreet cane and soft tie at 60 cm gives support without spoiling the natural look. In sheltered gardens, staking isn't needed.

6. 6

   Cut the main spike for side-spikes (or let it seed)

   For continuous flowering: once the main spike has gone over in July, cut it off at the base. The plant produces smaller secondary spikes from below, extending the flowering season into August. This shortens its life slightly but more than doubles flower production. For self-seeding: leave the main spike intact through August. Seeds form in capsules along the spent stem, ripen, and scatter to perpetuate next year's generation. You can shake the dry stem over chosen areas in September to direct the colony.

7. 7

   All parts are highly toxic

   Important. Every part of foxglove contains cardiac glycosides (digoxin, digitoxin) — the same compounds used in cardiac medicine. Eating any quantity can cause irregular heartbeat, nausea, vomiting, and in severe cases death. Even handling can transfer the compounds to your eyes via your hands, causing irritation. Wash hands after handling, especially after deadheading or cutting back. Warn children — the flowers are visually tempting but absolutely not to be touched without supervision. Don't plant near children's play areas.

8. 8

   Embrace the self-seeding

   The easiest way to keep foxgloves indefinitely. Let one or two plants set seed each year and the colony perpetuates itself — new rosettes appear in autumn where the seed fell. Manage the population: thin seedlings to 30 cm apart in spring; transplant excess seedlings to fill gaps (they move well as small rosettes); pull all unwanted seedlings before they get large. A managed foxglove population gives reliable display year after year.

Few pests; slugs may eat seedlings but established plants are tough.