Sunflower

1. 1

   Sow seed

   Late April direct outdoors in sheltered gardens; mid-March to mid-April indoors in modules elsewhere. 2 cm deep, 2 seeds per station, thin to the strongest. Germination in 7–10 days at 15°C+.

2. 2

   Protect seedlings from slugs

   Slugs and snails strip emerging sunflowers in a single night. Use nematodes, beer traps, hand-picking at dusk, or copper rings around new transplants. Pressure drops sharply once stems are 30 cm tall.

3. 3

   Plant out after the last frost

   Outdoor-sown plants are fine in situ; module-grown seedlings transplant after the last frost (mid-May south, early June north). Space 30 cm for dwarf, 60 cm for medium-to-tall varieties.

4. 4

   Stake tall varieties early

   Russian Giant, Mongolian Giant, Titan reach 3–4 m and topple in wind. Put in a tall cane (2.5 m) at planting; tie the stem in every 30 cm as it grows. Tie loosely with soft twine.

5. 5

   Water deeply through summer

   Sunflowers are reasonably drought-tolerant once established but a dry July gives smaller flowers. Water deeply every 5–7 days in dry weather. Mulch the base.

6. 6

   Cut for vases or leave for seeds

   For cut flowers: cut stems with secateurs when the petals have just opened and the back of the head is still green. They'll last 5–7 days in water. To leave heads on the plant for autumn seed: don't cut; the seeds ripen as the head turns brown and droops.

7. 7

   Leave seed heads for birds

   In October–November, when seed heads have turned brown and dry, leave them on the plant. Goldfinches, tits, and house sparrows feast on them through autumn. Cut the dried heads when most seeds are eaten or store somewhere dry to feed birds through winter.

Slugs eat seedlings; birds and squirrels take seeds from mature heads.