Tulip

Choose perennials or annuals

Dutch hybrid tulips (most named cultivars sold by garden centres): brilliant year 1, weak year 2, disappear by year 3. Treat as annuals — buy fresh bulbs each year for spectacular display, accept they won't reliably return. Darwin hybrid tulips (Apeldoorn, Pink Impression, Daydream): the most perennial of the large-flowered groups — return for 3–5 years with proper management. Species tulips (T. tarda, T. clusiana, T. saxatilis, T. turkestanica): truly perennial, naturalise into drifts, much smaller flowers but reliable year after year. For a first tulip: mixed Darwin hybrids for impact + a separate planting of species tulips for perennial return.

Plant in November to early December

Later than other spring bulbs — the cool soil reduces tulip fire disease (a serious fungal disease that thrives in warm soil). September–October plantings (typical for daffodils) often produce fire-infected tulips. November is the sweet spot: cold enough to suppress fire, warm enough for some root establishment before deep winter. In Scotland and the north: late October still works because soil is cooler.

Plant deep — 10–15 cm or more

Deeper than commonly advised. Standard advice is 10 cm; 15–20 cm gives better perennialisation and protects from squirrels. Most UK gardeners under-plant tulips — leading to bulbs that flower once and disappear. Plant pointed end up, blunt end down. Spacing: 10 cm apart for normal varieties; 5 cm for species tulips.

Plant in full sun in well-drained soil

Tulips are sun-and-drainage specialists. Best position: full sun (6+ hours), south or west-facing borders. Soil: well-drained loam, sandy soil, chalk all work; clay needs grit forking in or raised beds. Avoid: shade (reduces flowering), waterlogged soil (rots bulbs). For pots: peat-free compost mixed 30% with horticultural grit.

Protect against squirrels

Squirrels dig and eat tulip bulbs — particularly Dutch hybrid types. Three defences. (1) Deep planting (15–20 cm) — squirrels rarely excavate that deep. (2) Chicken wire under planting: bury 2 cm mesh wire 5 cm below the bulbs; tulip stems grow through, squirrels can't dig down. (3) Mulch with sharp gravel at the surface — discourages digging. Species tulips are less attractive to squirrels than Dutch hybrids.

Deadhead promptly, leave foliage

Same rule as daffodils: deadhead spent flowers (snap off at the base of the seed pod) to prevent seed-setting that drains the bulb, but leave the leaves alone for at least 6 weeks until they yellow naturally. In lawns: don't mow until mid-June. In borders: tuck yellowing leaves under emerging perennials. Cutting foliage early is the #1 cause of tulips that flower poorly or go blind.

Lift Dutch hybrids each summer (or treat as annuals)

For reliable Dutch hybrid repeat performance: lift bulbs after foliage has yellowed (typically late June). Brush off soil, store dry in a cool dry shed, replant in November. Most UK gardeners don't do this and accept Dutch hybrids as one-season displays. The alternative: plant Darwin hybrids and species tulips that perennialise without lifting.

Watch for tulip fire disease

The serious UK tulip disease. Symptoms: distorted, withered, brown-spotted leaves and flowers; collapse of plants; brown lesions on emerging shoots. Cause: Botrytis tulipae fungus, thrives in warm wet conditions. Prevention: plant in November (cold soil), full sun, well-drained position; remove and bin affected plants (don't compost); avoid replanting tulips in infected areas for 3 years. Once established, fire spreads through colonies.