When do I plant crocus?

Spring-flowering crocuses: plant corms in September to November, before soil cools below 5°C. Autumn-flowering crocuses (including saffron): plant corms in July or August for autumn bloom the same year. For lawn naturalising: late September is ideal — soil is still warm but autumn rains have started. Plant 5–7 cm deep, 5 cm apart, in groups of 15–20 minimum for visual impact.

Why are squirrels digging up my crocuses?

Squirrels eat crocus corms — particularly the larger Dutch hybrid types. Three defences. (1) Plant squirrel-resistant species: Crocus tommasinianus has corms that squirrels rarely touch; the standard for lawn naturalising. (2) Chicken wire under planting: bury 1 cm mesh wire 5 cm below the corms; flowers grow through, squirrels can't dig down. (3) Plant deeper: 10 cm instead of 5–7 cm — squirrels rarely excavate that deep.

When do I cut crocus foliage down?

Never — let it die back naturally in May. The grass-like leaves photosynthesise to fuel next year's flowers; cutting them early kills the colony within 2–3 years. In lawns: delay mowing the crocus area until at least mid-May, by which time leaves have yellowed and collapsed. In borders: leave the yellowing foliage; tuck it gently under emerging perennials if it looks tatty.

Will crocuses naturalise in my lawn?

Yes — exactly where they thrive. Lawn crocuses are one of the great UK garden classics. Best species for lawn naturalising: Crocus tommasinianus — small, vigorous, mouse-and-squirrel-resistant, multiplies by both seed and bulb division. Plant in autumn: lift small squares of turf, scatter corms, replace turf. Don't mow until mid-May. Over 5–10 years the colony spreads into a drift.

How do I grow my own saffron?

Plant Crocus sativus corms in July–August, 10 cm deep, in full sun in well-drained soil. Flowers appear in late October–November. Harvest: pick the whole flower as it opens, carefully pluck out the three orange-red stigmas. Dry on paper in a warm dry place for 2–3 days. Yield: 100–200 flowers per gram of dried saffron. A 200-corm bed produces about 1 g per year — enough for several saffron dishes. Best crop in dry sunny UK summers (which precondition the corms).

Can I grow crocuses in pots?

Yes — pots showcase crocuses brilliantly. Use a 25 cm pot of peat-free compost with grit added for drainage. Plant 20–30 corms per pot, 5 cm deep. For spring crocus: plant in October, leave outside in a cool spot through winter. Move to a sunny porch or doorstep in February for the flower display. Watering: don't waterlog. Replant in the garden after the foliage dies back in May — pot crocuses rarely flower a second year in the same compost.

Krokus

Crocus

Pflanzen Sie Krokuszwiebeln im Herbst (September–November) in 5–7 cm Tiefe in gut durchlässigen Boden – es handelt sich um winterharte, im Frühling blühende Zwiebelgewächse, die im Februar–März leuchtende, becherförmige Blüten hervorbringen, die zu den ersten Farbtupfern in britischen Gärten gehören. Krokusse sind winterhart (RHS H6–H7) und lassen sich in frühlingsblühende Arten (die beliebten Gartenarten – C. tommasinianus, C. chrysanthus, C. vernus sowie niederländische Hybriden) und herbstblühende Arten (C. sativus = Safran, C. speciosus = Herbstkrokus, im Sommer pflanzen für eine Herbstblüte) unterteilen. Für die natürliche Einbürgerung auf britischen Rasenflächen ist „Tommasinianus“ unschlagbar – klein, kräftig, maus- und eichhörnchenresistent, breitet sich in Gruppen aus. Lassen Sie das Laub vor dem Mähen natürlich absterben – dieselbe Regel wie bei Schneeglöckchen. Eichhörnchen graben Krokusknollen aus und fressen sie (besonders größere niederländische Hybriden); schützen Sie sie mit Maschendraht oder pflanzen Sie die eichhörnchenresistente C. tommasinianus.

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