Do I need two pear trees for pollination?

Most pears need a partner — Conference is the partial exception. Pears are grouped into flowering periods 1–4 and need a pollinator from the same or an adjacent group. Conference is partially self-fertile and crops decently as a single tree (more heavily with a partner). Other reliable solo plants: Williams (some self-fertility). For best crops, plant two compatible varieties (e.g. Conference + Williams + Comice = a trio that pollinates each other). Most garden centres label compatibility groups; ask if not.

When do I pick pears?

Earlier than you think. Pick when the fruit is full-size, still firm, but the stalk lifts cleanly with a gentle twist of the fruit. This is typically late August for early varieties (Williams), September for mid-season (Conference), late September for late (Doyenne du Comice). Don't wait until the pear feels soft on the tree — by then it's gone mealy and brown at the core. Pears ripen indoors over 2–3 weeks on a tray. Test for eating ripeness by gentle pressure near the stalk — it should yield slightly.

Why has my pear tree never cropped?

Three usual causes. (1) Frost on blossom: pears flower early (April) and a late frost kills the crop. Plant in a sheltered south or west-facing position, away from frost pockets. (2) No pollination partner: most pears need a partner from the same flowering group; Conference is the partial exception. Identify your variety and check pollination requirements. (3) Too young or pruned too hard: pears on Quince A take 3–4 years to start cropping; hard winter pruning reduces fruit buds (prune lightly for fruit, hard only for shape).

What's the best pear variety for the UK?

Conference — the safest, most reliable choice. Partially self-fertile, tolerates light shade and cooler gardens, stores 1–2 months, distinctive elongated shape, classic pear flavour. Doyenne du Comice has the best flavour but needs warmth and a partner. Williams' Bon Chretien is the early melting pear (peels cleanly, the supermarket pear). Beth is the compact early variety for small gardens. Avoid old varieties unless you have a real interest in heritage fruit.

What's wrong with my pear leaves — small dark blisters?

Pear leaf blister mite (Eriophyes pyri) — small mites that cause raised pinkish-green blisters on leaves, turning black through summer. Looks alarming but rarely affects fruit yield. Pick affected leaves off in spring and bin (don't compost — eggs overwinter). For severe cases, a winter wash with horticultural oil reduces overwintering mites. Don't panic — this is a cosmetic issue, not a crisis.

Can I grow a pear tree in a pot?

Yes — on Quince C rootstock only. A 50 cm pot of peat-free compost, in a sunny sheltered spot. Pear trees in pots need: (1) permanent staking, (2) regular feeding (slow-release fertiliser in April + liquid feed monthly), (3) consistent watering (drying out causes fruit drop). Repot every 3–4 years in winter, replacing the outer compost. A pot pear gives a smaller crop than in-ground but works for cordon or stepover-trained trees on a patio.

Birnbaum

Pyrus communis

Plant pear trees bare-root from November to March, in a sheltered, sunny, frost-free spot — pears flower earlier than apples and are vulnerable to spring frosts, so position matters more than for any other fruit. Pears are very hardy (RHS H6) but the early blossom is not. The rootstock controls the eventual size: Quince C for cordons and small gardens (2–3 m), Quince A for half-standards in larger gardens (3–4 m), pear seedling rootstock for full-size trees. Most pears need a pollination partner from the same flowering group; Conference is the UK reliable choice — partially self-fertile and crops in shaded gardens where most pears struggle. Pick pears unripe and firm in September, ripen indoors over 2–3 weeks; tree-ripened pears go mealy and brown at the core. Pear leaf blister mite causes black blisters but rarely harms the crop.

View full growing guide →