How do I force chicory for winter chicons?

The Belgian witloof tradition. Sow Witloof Zoom or similar forcing variety in late May. Let the plants develop tap roots through summer. In late October–November, lift the roots; trim leaves to 2 cm, trim root to 15–20 cm. Pack roots upright in a bucket of moist sand/compost, just the crowns showing. Cover completely with a black bin or thick black plastic to exclude all light. Keep at 10–15°C for 3–5 weeks. The pale chicons (tight 12–15 cm spears) form; snap off at the base. Second chicons may follow on remaining root.

What's the difference between chicory and endive?

Same family, different species, different uses. Chicory (Cichorium intybus): hardy perennial (annual in cultivation), upright growth, bitter flavour, three main types — forcing/witloof, heading/radicchio, leaf/sugarloaf. Endive (Cichorium endivia — see separate endive slug): hardy annual, flat or curly rosette growth, milder bitterness, autumn salad crop. Endive's two types are curly (frisée) and flat-leaved (escarole). Both are bitter salad greens but chicory tends to be sharper and more often cooked.

Why is my chicory so bitter?

Bitterness is the point of chicory. All chicory is bitter to some degree — that's why it's used as a counter-flavour to sweet, rich, fatty ingredients. To reduce bitterness: (1) Blanching — grow under dark cover (the witloof forcing method) for the mildest leaves. (2) Cooking — braising reduces bitterness significantly. (3) Choose mild varieties — Pan di Zucchero (sugarloaf) is the mildest. (4) Pair with sweet/rich flavours — orange, honey, butter, cheese, walnuts cut through the bitterness.

When do I harvest chicory?

Depends on type. Forcing chicory: harvest the roots in late October–November, then force indoors over winter for chicons in January–March. Heading chicory (radicchio): cut whole heads from late September onwards when firm and tight. Leaf chicory (sugarloaf, asparagus): cut-and-come-again from 6 weeks after sowing, or harvest whole heads at maturity. Asparagus chicory (Catalogna): cook the young flower stems as well as the leaves.

What's the best chicory variety for the UK?

For a first chicory experience: Palla Rossa radicchio — rose-coloured cabbage-like heads in autumn, dramatic visual return, classic Italian salad use. For Belgian witloof tradition: Witloof Zoom — bred for forcing chicons. For milder eating: Pan di Zucchero (sugarloaf) — large pale heads with less bitterness than red types. For something different: Treviso — elongated burgundy-red leaves, beautiful in autumn salads.

Can I grow chicory in a pot?

Possible but not optimal. Chicory has a deep taproot and wants 30+ cm of root space. Pot chicory: use a 30 cm pot, choose leaf or heading types (forcing chicory needs proper-sized roots for chicons). Water consistently. Pot heading chicory makes smaller heads than ground-grown but works for small gardens. For forcing: pot culture isn't ideal — the roots don't bulk up enough for substantial chicons. Better in the ground for that traditional Belgian winter crop.

Achicoria

Cichorium intybus

Siembre la achicoria directamente de mayo a julio, a pleno sol y en un suelo bien drenado; se trata de una planta perenne resistente (RHS H7) que se cultiva como anual o para obtener raíces que se recogen en otoño y se forzan en interior durante el invierno con el fin de producir «chicones» tiernos y de color pálido, con hojas de sabor agridulce. Existen tres tipos principales con diferentes usos: la achicoria de forzado (se recogen las raíces en noviembre y se forzan en interior para obtener chicones blancos entre enero y marzo —la tradición belga del witloof—); la achicoria de cabeza / radicchio (tipos italianos rojos como la Palla Rossa, que forman una cabeza como el repollo en otoño); y la achicoria de hoja (tipos como la «sugarloaf» y la «asparagus», que se cosechan con la cabeza entera o cortando las hojas para que vuelvan a crecer). Las tres comparten un sabor ligeramente amargo que es una característica que o se ama o se odia: más suave cuando se escaldan (la técnica de forzado), con toda su intensidad cuando crecen hasta alcanzar su tamaño y color definitivos. Atrae a los caracoles en el exterior: proteja las plantas jóvenes.

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