When do I plant crocus?

Spring-flowering crocuses: plant corms in September to November, before soil cools below 5°C. Autumn-flowering crocuses (including saffron): plant corms in July or August for autumn bloom the same year. For lawn naturalising: late September is ideal — soil is still warm but autumn rains have started. Plant 5–7 cm deep, 5 cm apart, in groups of 15–20 minimum for visual impact.

Why are squirrels digging up my crocuses?

Squirrels eat crocus corms — particularly the larger Dutch hybrid types. Three defences. (1) Plant squirrel-resistant species: Crocus tommasinianus has corms that squirrels rarely touch; the standard for lawn naturalising. (2) Chicken wire under planting: bury 1 cm mesh wire 5 cm below the corms; flowers grow through, squirrels can't dig down. (3) Plant deeper: 10 cm instead of 5–7 cm — squirrels rarely excavate that deep.

When do I cut crocus foliage down?

Never — let it die back naturally in May. The grass-like leaves photosynthesise to fuel next year's flowers; cutting them early kills the colony within 2–3 years. In lawns: delay mowing the crocus area until at least mid-May, by which time leaves have yellowed and collapsed. In borders: leave the yellowing foliage; tuck it gently under emerging perennials if it looks tatty.

Will crocuses naturalise in my lawn?

Yes — exactly where they thrive. Lawn crocuses are one of the great UK garden classics. Best species for lawn naturalising: Crocus tommasinianus — small, vigorous, mouse-and-squirrel-resistant, multiplies by both seed and bulb division. Plant in autumn: lift small squares of turf, scatter corms, replace turf. Don't mow until mid-May. Over 5–10 years the colony spreads into a drift.

How do I grow my own saffron?

Plant Crocus sativus corms in July–August, 10 cm deep, in full sun in well-drained soil. Flowers appear in late October–November. Harvest: pick the whole flower as it opens, carefully pluck out the three orange-red stigmas. Dry on paper in a warm dry place for 2–3 days. Yield: 100–200 flowers per gram of dried saffron. A 200-corm bed produces about 1 g per year — enough for several saffron dishes. Best crop in dry sunny UK summers (which precondition the corms).

Can I grow crocuses in pots?

Yes — pots showcase crocuses brilliantly. Use a 25 cm pot of peat-free compost with grit added for drainage. Plant 20–30 corms per pot, 5 cm deep. For spring crocus: plant in October, leave outside in a cool spot through winter. Move to a sunny porch or doorstep in February for the flower display. Watering: don't waterlog. Replant in the garden after the foliage dies back in May — pot crocuses rarely flower a second year in the same compost.

Krokus

Crocus

Bulwy krokusów należy sadzić jesienią (wrzesień–listopad) na głębokości 5–7 cm w dobrze przepuszczalnej glebie — są to odporne cebulki kwitnące wiosną, które w lutym–marcu wypuszczają intensywne, miseczkowate kwiaty, stanowiące jedną z najwcześniejszych plam koloru w brytyjskich ogrodach. Krokusy są odporne (RHS H6–H7) i dzielą się na odmiany kwitnące wiosną (popularne gatunki ogrodowe — C. tommasinianus, C. chrysanthus, holenderskie hybrydy C. vernus) oraz odmiany kwitnące jesienią (C. sativus = szafran, C. speciosus = krokus jesienny, sadzić latem, aby kwitły jesienią). Do naturalizacji trawników w Wielkiej Brytanii „Tommasinianus” jest bezkonkurencyjny — mały, bujny, odporny na myszy i wiewiórki, rozrasta się w kępy. Przed koszeniem należy pozwolić liściom naturalnie obumrzeć — ta sama zasada dotyczy przebiśniegów. Wiewiórki wykopują i zjadają bulwy krokusów (zwłaszcza większych holenderskich hybryd); należy je chronić siatką drucianą lub uprawiać odporny na wiewiórki C. tommasinianus.

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