Curly kale

1. 1

   Sow

   Mid-April to early June in modules or a seedbed. Cover lightly; water in. Germination in 7–10 days. Don't sow too early — kale that bolts before winter is a wasted crop.

2. 2

   Transplant

   From late June to early August, when seedlings have 4–5 true leaves and are 10–15 cm tall. Plant 45 cm apart for full-size plants, 30 cm for smaller types. Water in well.

3. 3

   Net against cabbage white

   From transplanting until mid-October. Cabbage whites lay eggs on any brassica; caterpillars strip a plant overnight. Use 5 mm enviromesh or fine butterfly netting on hoops.

4. 4

   Stake tall varieties

   Cavolo Nero and Walking Stick kale can reach 1 m and topple in autumn winds. Bury the stem deep at transplant; tie to a cane if the site is exposed.

5. 5

   Pick outer leaves continuously

   From October onwards, pick the outer leaves regularly. Take 2–3 per plant per week. The plant keeps producing new growth from the centre. The lower stem becomes bare over time; this is normal.

6. 6

   Re-net against pigeons in winter

   From October onwards, pigeons strip unprotected kale to skeletons. Net firmly with enviromesh or proper pigeon netting on hoops 30 cm above the plants. Re-tension after windy nights.

7. 7

   Take spring shoots

   In March to April, kale plants bolt — they produce tender, broccoli-like flower shoots before the actual flowers open. These are the best part of the kale year; cut them like sprouting broccoli when the buds are still tight.

Cabbage white caterpillars, mealy aphid, and whitefly are common; netting helps.