Mizuna

1. 1

   Sow direct, March to October

   Mizuna is cool-season: best in spring (March–May) and autumn (August–October), with midsummer sowings often bolting before they're ready. Sow thinly in shallow drills (1 cm deep), 20–30 cm between rows. Germination in 7–14 days. For cut-and-come-again: thin to 5 cm; for full mature plants: thin to 20–30 cm. Mizuna isn't fussy about soil but prefers moisture-retentive ground.

2. 2

   Sow successionally every 3 weeks

   A single mizuna sowing crops cut-and-come-again for 4–6 weeks then bolts. Sow a fresh row every 3 weeks through the cool months for continuous picking. Skip the hot midsummer weeks (mid-June to early August) — mizuna bolts immediately in heat. Resume in late August for autumn and winter cropping.

3. 3

   Sow under cover in September for winter salads

   The best mizuna season is winter, sown in September. A row sown in late August or early September under a cloche, low polytunnel, or cold frame produces tender leaves from October through to March — one of the most useful UK winter undercover salads. Outdoor September sowings crop until first hard frost, then survive but stop growing until spring.

4. 4

   Pick young leaves cut-and-come-again

   The classic UK technique for fast salads. Cut whole rows at 2–3 cm above the soil when leaves are 10–15 cm tall (4–6 weeks from sowing). The plant regrows in 7–10 days — repeat the cut 3–4 times before the row finally bolts. Use scissors or a sharp knife for clean cuts that re-grow quickly; tearing damages the regrowth point.

5. 5

   Protect from slugs

   The main mizuna problem outdoors. Slugs love the tender leaves and can shred a row overnight. Three controls. (1) Wool pellets around the row — slugs dislike crossing rough fibres. (2) Nematodes (Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita) watered into the soil — biological control. (3) Grow under cover — cloches and polytunnels exclude slugs almost completely (a major reason mizuna is so successful undercover).

6. 6

   Watch for flea beetle in summer

   Flea beetle (Phyllotreta) creates tiny shot-hole damage on leaves in hot dry summers — peppers the leaves with pinprick holes. Damaged leaves are still edible but unsightly. Prevention: cover with fine insect mesh from sowing, or keep soil consistently moist (flea beetle thrives in drought-stressed plants). Mid-summer mizuna often gets flea beetle even with prevention — another reason to avoid hot-season sowings.

7. 7

   Use young — flavour intensifies with age

   Pick young (10–15 cm leaves) for mild peppery flavour suitable for salads. Older leaves get sharper and more mustardy — still good for stir-fries, sushi rolls, mixed salad mixes, but too strong for fresh leaf salads. Use fresh within 2–3 days of picking; mizuna doesn't store well. Add to sandwiches, mixed salad bowls, stir-fries (cooks in 30 seconds).

8. 8

   Let some plants flower for self-seeding (optional)

   Mizuna bolts to small yellow flowers in late summer if not picked. Let one or two plants flower and set seed — the small black seeds drop where they fall and produce volunteer seedlings the following spring. Cut bolting plants if you don't want self-seeding; the slightly tougher leaves and young flower stems are still edible (use in stir-fries).

Flea beetle can riddle leaves; generally robust once past the seedling stage.