Redcurrant
Redcurrant
Ribes rubrum
About
Plant redcurrant bushes bare-root from November to March, in sun or light shade, in any decent garden soil — they crop heavily on a permanent framework of branches for 15+ years. Redcurrants are very hardy (RHS H6–H7) and shrug off any UK winter. Don't prune them like blackcurrants: redcurrants fruit on old wood and spurs, so train to a permanent open-goblet framework like a gooseberry. Net the ripening trusses heavily — blackbirds and squirrels strip a bush in a morning. Pick whole strigs (the strings of berries) by snipping at the top of the truss, then strip individual berries with a fork later. Jonkheer van Tets (early), Red Lake (mid), and Rovada (late, heaviest cropper) are reliable UK varieties.
How to grow redcurrant
- 1
Know that redcurrants are pruned like gooseberries, NOT blackcurrants
This is the single most important thing about growing redcurrants. Blackcurrants fruit on last year's wood and are pruned hard to the base each winter. Redcurrants fruit on spurs on a permanent framework of older branches, so they're pruned like a gooseberry: build a goblet shape and only renew sparingly. Pruning them like a blackcurrant removes the crop.
- 2
Choose your variety
Jonkheer van Tets — early, vigorous, large berries. Crops late June. Red Lake — mid-season, heavy crop, long strigs, the UK favourite. Rovada — late, the heaviest cropper of all, very long strigs, mildew-resistant, the modern standard. Stanza — late, compact bush, good for smaller gardens. A single bush of any variety crops well; there's no need for a pollination partner.
- 3
Plant bare-root in winter
November to March. Plant on a slight mound to keep the crown out of waterlogging. Spacing: 1.5 m apart for bushes; 30–45 cm for cordons; 1 m for fan-trained. Redcurrants tolerate light shade — useful if you've run out of sunny spots.
- 4
Train to a permanent goblet
Year one: cut the main shoots back by half to outward-facing buds, removing any inward-pointing growth. Aim for 5–6 main branches angled outward from a short clear stem (15 cm). Year two onwards: build out from this framework, keeping the centre open.
- 5
Summer prune in late June
Cut all new sideshoots back to five leaves in late June. This exposes the developing strigs to sunlight (sweetens the berries), keeps the bush manageable, and encourages spur formation along the framework branches.
- 6
Winter prune for renewal
February. Shorten the leading shoots of each main branch by half. Cut back sideshoots already shortened in summer to two buds. Remove any really old wood (more than 4–5 years) at the base to encourage strong replacement shoots. The permanent framework largely stays — you're refreshing the spur system, not rebuilding the bush.
- 7
Net the strigs as they colour up
Birds and squirrels will strip a bush in a morning the moment the berries turn red. Net the bush from mid-June, before any colour shows. Fine mesh tucked under at the base — squirrels can climb under any gap. A walk-in fruit cage is the long-term answer if you grow multiple soft fruit bushes.
- 8
Pick whole strigs, strip with a fork
Pick the entire string of berries at once by snipping the stalk at the top of the strig — much faster than picking individual berries off the bush, and the strigs keep better in the fridge. Strip the berries with a kitchen fork over a bowl when you're ready to use them. The strigs are too bitter to eat; the berries make summer pudding, redcurrant jelly, and a classic accompaniment to roast lamb.
Common questions
Pest Resilience
Sawfly caterpillars can strip leaves quickly; inspect undersides regularly.
Companion Planting
Visual Characteristics
Flowers
Blooms in Spring
Culinary
Jams, jellies, fresh eating, sauces, summer pudding, cordials
The redcurrant year in your garden
How to Propagate
🦋Wildlife & Garden Ecology
Great for supporting local pollinators and wildlife
Hardiness Zones
USDA 5 equivalent